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Post by FlyAndStream on Apr 27, 2019 12:14:58 GMT -6
Like Bill said, one-size, I prefer 5.5x as well. Hanak Champion fluoro is the best for the price IMO, though they just quit selling the 150m spools in the US. I just bought 8 of the 5.5x in 150m spools, should be good for a year.
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Post by darrelln09 on Apr 28, 2019 8:38:23 GMT -6
And it’s time for another question. When you add your tippit do you run one size, say 4x or do you stack it, say 4x down to 5x? Thanks in advance!! I think you should run one size all the way down, including the droppers. That way there is equal drag.
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Post by turfdawg on Apr 30, 2019 11:40:12 GMT -6
Hello, my name is Bill and I’m a Euro addict.
Just bought another dang rod
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Post by FlyAndStream on Apr 30, 2019 20:53:01 GMT -6
* A sweet rod
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Post by gui on May 1, 2019 7:30:16 GMT -6
Hello, my name is Bill and I’m a Euro addict. Just bought another dang rod So, which one you got?!
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Post by turfdawg on May 1, 2019 8:20:06 GMT -6
Hello, my name is Bill and I’m a Euro addict. Just bought another dang rod So, which one you got?! A used Sage ESN HD 10’ 2wt
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Post by gui on May 1, 2019 13:15:33 GMT -6
A used Sage ESN HD 10’ 2wt Sounds like a sweet rod indeed! Enjoy!
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Post by hoss on May 1, 2019 15:58:22 GMT -6
turfdawg you make a good point about the rain. Could you explain how the rain impacts the rig?
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Post by jonbo on May 1, 2019 17:58:04 GMT -6
Hoss, from what I understand from Bill and others, if you have mono leader running up from your reel, through the guides, and out, in other words, if you're using about a 30 foot leader as I do when I tight-line or "euro", if it starts to rain the mono will start sticking to the rod, making it hard to fish with it. I run the super-long mono leader because I have regular old WF fly-line behind it. The WF line will sag in the guides unless it's either all the way on the reel or somewhat out of the tip. But if it's out of the tip, then it makes a sag in the leader before it reaches the water. So you need to keep the line all the way on the reel when tight-lining if your line is regular fly-line.
With that specialty super-light euro-line I think you can have the line up and out the tip and use a shorter leader. You don't have the issues I was describing (if I'm understanding the system correctly). Then you can euro-disco in the rain to your heart's content! I don't think it casts so well, though. The system I'm using, whenever I want to fish dries or strip/swing soft hackle flies, I take off my euro-leader and put a standard 9 ft tapered leader on and it casts great. My Echo 3 wt is known for being able to fish both styles, though. It probably isn't the best for either style, but it works! Don't have to pack 2 rods.
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Post by Texastroutfisher on May 1, 2019 18:13:55 GMT -6
OK, I’m a week out from hitting the water and I think I understand most of the basics of euro nymphing. However, I’m having trouble understanding depth control. I plan to run about 54 inches of tippit based on an average depth of 3ft, I read that in another post on here some where. Do you basically keep the rod tip just high enough to keep your point fly in touch with the bottom? I’m just trying to understand the differences in keeping in touch with the bottom when fishing EH or HH vs fishing some place like the SBB or the bluffs with a set length of tippit and no indicator to control depth. Thanks in advance.
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Post by jonbo on May 1, 2019 18:39:59 GMT -6
Texas, all that part, I'm afraid it's mostly trial-and-error, as far as I can tell. I haven't really sussed it all out yet. I've tight-lined about 8-10 times now, I think. The deep slow water at the Bluffs, I don't think that's what tight-lining does so well at. It's more suited to that fast corner at the bluffs, and especially the Rock Pile Run. Riffles and pockets, mainly, quick runs, anywhere on Spillway. Slower water, you probably want an indicator.
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Post by jonbo on May 1, 2019 18:47:40 GMT -6
But depth control, itself, from watching videos and as much as what I'm starting to catch on to, you use the rod tip in combination with your stripping hand. Also, from what I've seen, if you lean your leader forward some, and pull the flies a little more, you keep your flies up a little in the shallow sections. To go deeper, slow down on pulling them till the leader's closer to vertical. It seems to take practice like a lot of things, and a lot of us probably don't get time to practice it adequately.
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Post by turfdawg on May 1, 2019 19:48:02 GMT -6
OK, I’m a week out from hitting the water and I think I understand most of the basics of euro nymphing. However, I’m having trouble understanding depth control. I plan to run about 54 inches of tippit based on an average depth of 3ft, I read that in another post on here some where. Do you basically keep the rod tip just high enough to keep your point fly in touch with the bottom? I’m just trying to understand the differences in keeping in touch with the bottom when fishing EH or HH vs fishing some place like the SBB or the bluffs with a set length of tippit and no indicator to control depth. Thanks in advance. I'll be honest and say this is going to take some getting used to. Heavier is easier to tell because you can feel bottom much better. Jonbo is correct on leader angle. When the sighter is below your rod tip you are going to reach maximum depth the fastest.
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Post by dainw on May 6, 2019 17:44:03 GMT -6
OK, I’m a week out from hitting the water and I think I understand most of the basics of euro nymphing. However, I’m having trouble understanding depth control. I plan to run about 54 inches of tippit based on an average depth of 3ft, I read that in another post on here some where. Do you basically keep the rod tip just high enough to keep your point fly in touch with the bottom? I’m just trying to understand the differences in keeping in touch with the bottom when fishing EH or HH vs fishing some place like the SBB or the bluffs with a set length of tippit and no indicator to control depth. Thanks in advance. Okay so I’m no expert here. I’m relatively new to euro nymphing myself. Started in the fall and have gotten to try it out probably 8-10 times. That being said I haven’t been skunked fishing like this and most of my trips have been significantly more productive than they would’ve been had I been fishing the traditional bobber method. I was a decent bobber fisherman. Here are my thoughts on the subject, take them for what they are worth. 1. You always want to have your rod tip down stream of your flies. There’s no scenario where the rod tip would be upstream of your flies. You can sometimes be in situations where the rod tip is almost directly in line with your flies, but this would be in slower water (ie the bluffs). 2. The angle that your tippet makes as it enters the water should tell you what your flies are doing. Ideally the angle of your tippet as it enters the water is nearly straight. If you have more of an L, then you need to add more weight until you get the tippet to straighten out and you are almost pulling the flies through the drift but not really. Don’t be afraid to add split shot if you need to. Not adding shot is a comp thing and there are no tournaments scheduled for broken bow next weekend. If the tippet is nearly straight and you are leading the flies through the drift slightly, then you can start to control the depth of the drift. 3. I think this is the part that pertains to your question. If you’re confident on the depth of the water and that your tippet from your sighter to flies is deeper than the water you’re fishing, best rule of thumb is to keep sighter above water and start with flies on bottom. Gradually run shallower drifts until you find the fish, eyeballing how far sighter is above the water to tell you how deep you’re flies are if you’re not on bottom. If you’re fishing somewhere that you aren’t sure exactly how deep the bottom is, like the bluffs, I generally just go deeper and deeper until I either start catching fish or find the bottom. If you’re confident that the depth of the water is deeper than your tippet to sighter, you can increase the length of your rig. I generally will just sink my sighter in this situation (usually adding weight). I usually terminate my sighter with 3x diameter tippet, so I’m not concerned with diameter of sighter hindering my drift if it’s underwater. The bluffs move so slow that you can have a true tightline connection to your flies with rod tip almost directly above them. The sighter Is generally just something that points towards my flies in the drift. Most of the time I’m going to feel a take rather than see it. That may not be true for some of the experts on here or people that have been doing it longer, but my guess is you won’t be able to register a take just by seeing the sighter move, at least not on your first trip. Anyway, have fun and write us a report. Interested to hear how you did. Dain
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Post by Texastroutfisher on May 7, 2019 7:28:40 GMT -6
Thanks for the input Dain. Looking forward to giving it a go this weekend.
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