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Post by boomer on Sept 6, 2018 16:24:34 GMT -6
I make yarn indicators from poly yarn. Pat Dorsey has some YouTube vids using them with dental rubber bands to attach, but since it's heat fusible, I just melt loops of it, and squash the melted ends with pliers, melt a hole, and trim it. But I don't like doing a loop attachment because it kinks the leade, and little rubber bands aren't yet in my possession. Then I found a couple of vids from Red's Fly Shop (one below) where they showed how to make stops for Thingamabobbers by nail knotting old fly line to the leader butt, which can be slid along the butt section. Won't work for tapered leaders. But it gave me an idea...the holes I make in my yarn indicators are much smaller. So I'm making these nail knot stops with mono. Seems to work well. I put only one stop on the leaders I build...the lower one. And I don't put a loop in the leader butt when I tie them up. A simple 3 wrap "half blood" connects the leader to the heavier butt I nail knot (and loop) to the fly line. Sure, I have to cut the leader butt knot to remove or add the indicator, and maybe the lack of an upper stop will make the indicator less sensitive, but I doubt it because of the viscose drag on the water. Putting a kit together for the Juan in Oct. link |
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Post by mirvc17 on Sept 6, 2018 16:36:05 GMT -6
When I was at Angler's All fly shop a few weeks ago, I asked the shop guy if they had in Thingamastoppers. He looked at me funny and I explained to him that the makers of the Thingamabobber are supposed to have this new stopper out this year. Google it and you'll see a video from IntheRiffle. But they will not cause any kinking at all. It's more or less a piece of rubber on the leader that the grommet of the TM fits on that prevents it from moving. Looks pretty cool.
Allegedly, the Dorsey style with ortho rubber bands aren't supposed to kink the leader but my always do. Maybe I'm doing it wrong.
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Post by boomer on Sept 6, 2018 16:58:02 GMT -6
Yup...link below. I favor yarn. link |
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Post by turfdawg on Sept 6, 2018 17:18:12 GMT -6
Pretty neat but what’s wrong with New Zealand and Airlock indicators
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Post by boomer on Sept 6, 2018 17:30:54 GMT -6
Probably nothing wrong with either...just like to work things out my own way. I can cut then fluff the poly cord to make different sizes as needed. Cheap to make so I can cut the indicator off if I choose. Yarn lands soft. Just a personal preference.
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Post by mirvc17 on Sept 6, 2018 19:12:14 GMT -6
I like the NZ Strike Indicator a lot... often my go-to... it's versatile, lands soft, stealthy, and can suspend even medium weight nymphs... and of course super sensitive and you get to choose the size.
I really don't like Airlocks that much. They're heavier than Thingas and I've had some problems with the leader/tippet getting wrapped around them and causing tangles (probably my fault really). I don't think they cast quite as nicely as Thingas either.
Poly cord doesn't seem to float quite as well as NZ wool. Definitely requires a bit more maintenance to keep em floating.
A good tip for Thingas to help with the kinking is to remove the metal grommet with needle nose pliers. (Until this Thingmastopper comes out). It helps a lot IMO.
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Post by joeq on Sept 22, 2018 10:31:49 GMT -6
I just use two pieces of old fly line and nail not it on each side of the Thingamabobber. It can be moved up and down the leader but will not let the indicator move at all during casting. It also doesn't kink the leader at all.
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Post by lipripper1983 on Sept 22, 2018 14:15:40 GMT -6
When I was at Angler's All fly shop a few weeks ago, I asked the shop guy if they had in Thingamastoppers. He looked at me funny and I explained to him that the makers of the Thingamabobber are supposed to have this new stopper out this year. Google it and you'll see a video from IntheRiffle. But they will not cause any kinking at all. It's more or less a piece of rubber on the leader that the grommet of the TM fits on that prevents it from moving. Looks pretty cool. Allegedly, the Dorsey style with ortho rubber bands aren't supposed to kink the leader but my always do. Maybe I'm doing it wrong. I've seen those thingamastoppers on youtube as well. They look neat. I'm also interested in those new strike indicators from Rio which is basically hollow fly line you put on your line. Quick question while I'm here: Has anyone tried a slinky indicator for swinging wet flies or tiny dries. |
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Post by mirvc17 on Sept 22, 2018 15:30:13 GMT -6
Lipripper... yep I want to try those new ones from Rio--gonna buy some. I don't think you'd want a slinky sighter/indicator... unless the water is moving fairly slow and the surface is calm. Otherwise the indicator would get stretched out with the current. You don't need an indicator anyway for swinging wets. The fish will let you know you're hooked up.  For tiny dries that I can't see like small Griffiths, emergers, or midge/trico patterns that are hard to see, I usually put a white Palsa pinch-on 18-24" away from the fly. It looks like a foam bubble and lands super soft. Doesn't spook. Also if I see a rise where I think the fly might be, I'll set the hook. |
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Post by mirvc17 on Sept 22, 2018 15:32:49 GMT -6
I just use two pieces of old fly line and nail not it on each side of the Thingamabobber. It can be moved up and down the leader but will not let the indicator move at all during casting. It also doesn't kink the leader at all. The fly line stoppers are great but only if you plan on nymphing with the same size bobber all day long. You could buy or make your own leader that has a larger perfection loop so you could change leaders if you want to change tactics. Otherwise you're stuck nymphing. I find myself changing tactics and even indicators too often to be able to use the nail knot bobber stoppers.... |
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Post by boomer on Sept 23, 2018 4:07:46 GMT -6
If you put two nail knot stoppers (made with mono...not flyline) on a long butt section of a leader you make at home, the indicator has to go in the middle of those stops out the gate. If you only put on one and add the indicator above it from the butt section on the water, all the action of casting should drive the indicator to where ever you placed the stop. If you later want to remove the indicator, you cut the butt, slide it off and re-tie it (loop to clinch). This is what I'm gonna try with midges on the Juan soon. The greased yarn indicator is mostly for regular nymph and indicator...some shot added, but can also be slid down closer to unweighted midges if fish are working near the top more like dry fly. It may not work out...it requires a long, knotless butt section where the indicator stop can ride. Yarn indicators can be trimmed to size, especially since I make my own from heat fused macramé yarn. I won't mind simply cutting them off either. Prepping new approaches with new materials is akin to fly tying for me. I wish trout water was closer, but it's not, so I spend more time getting ready with something new to try out.
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Post by mirvc17 on Sept 23, 2018 7:29:30 GMT -6
I ordered some of those Rio Kahuna LT indicators (the slim ones)... hope to try them out soon.
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Post by FlyAndStream on Oct 5, 2018 21:03:07 GMT -6
Pretty neat but what’s wrong with New Zealand and Airlock indicators Price (NZ) and splash (Airlock)  #tightline |
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Post by darrelln09 on Oct 7, 2018 10:22:10 GMT -6
The New Zealand strike indicators are expensive initially ($15 for the tool and another $15 for a bag of wool) but I think there’s enough wool there for the rest of my lifetime.
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Post by thecroflys on Nov 19, 2018 13:08:31 GMT -6
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For tiny dries that I can't see like small Griffiths, emergers, or midge/trico patterns that are hard to see, I usually put a white Palsa pinch-on 18-24" away from the fly. It looks like a foam bubble and lands super soft. Doesn't spook.
