Rigging up for nymph fishing

[dainw]

The conversation about indicators vs. tight line nymphing on spawned and interesting question for me, but I didn't want to hijack the thread. I'm just curious as to how everyone rigs their nymphs up? If I'm fishing two (or more) nymphs, generally under an indicator, I always tie the bigger, heavier fly in the lead position and fly the smaller fly, usually an egg or small nymph/midge in the dropper position, directly to the bend of the hook on my point fly. I then use split shot as needed to get the flies down. I'm assuming this is how everyone else does it right? 

I've been starting to read the book "Dynamic Nymphing" by George Daniel and have seen some videos online from both him and Kelly Galloup that have perhaps suggested that this isn't the most efficient setup. They both make the point that split shot creates a hinge between the line and the fly, and you lose the direct connection to your fly, and thus end up missing strikes. George Daniel prefers not to use shot at all, instead just fishing heavily weighted nymphs. Kelly Galloup recommends a "dropshot system" where the weight is actually placed below the bottom fly. Both of these people recommend fishing the larger fly on the bottom and tying the smaller fly on as a detached dropper up top, which sort of makes sense to me, especially if you're using an emerger type pattern as I would think you'd want these flies to ride higher in the water column.  

So does anyone use tie up their nymph rigs like this or are there any other methods besides what I'm assuming most people are doing?

[Evan Vanek]

It's your preference, I now catch more fish Czech and French leader coiled and tight lining and even dry dropped with sz 18 dries and seem to produce very well. It took me about a year to get it down well and get good at it. It's very difficult and takes many trips fishing to tackle it. His book is right on some points but many of the flies he suggests don't work well on the LMF and some tactics I don't use much. If you ever want to learn how I'm open to show you the setup and how to fish it.

[dainw]

Yeah I'd definitely be interested in learning more about European style nymphing. I can definitely see situations where it would be more advantageous than using an indicator, especially if you have spooky fish. I think the leader setup I saw was 9ft of 0x leader and 20 inches of sighter tippet tied to a tippet ring, and then flouro tippet about as long as the deepest water you think you'll fish that day to your flies. Is this similar to the rig you throw?

I'm also wondering what people are doing, even for indicator nymphing. I'm just wondering if the method that I'm using and I'm assuming a lot of people are using, is the most efficient. Does anyone tie detached droppers like that when they're fishing with an indicator?

[golferjeff]

Go west enough and you will find the Provo Bounce a lot. Weight on bottom, big fly just above, smaller flies tied to tags above that. POpular on western tailwaters.

Me - Generally a larger attractor tied at 1.5x water depth (Neer deer, stonefly, beadhead hares ear) and then a smaller nymph or emerger 18" to the bend of the attractor hook. If emerger, I may go 24" to get a free flow ABOVE the attractor. I try to use beadheads to get down rather than split shot. Shot used when I want it down quick and/or tight.

I find it frustrating to tie tags or droppers to the hook eye. Too much tangling and impossible to un-do.

I wonder if Bessett goes egg/worm or worm/egg? I go worm/egg.

Cool topic. I know guides and good anglers get creative. I don't have the patience or creativity, so I stick to what I can figure out and fish at least well enough.

[bradbessett]

I peel off about 3 feet of tippet and use a surgeons knot at the end of my (typically) 9' leader. Add 1-2 #1 splits above that knot. I then move down about 15 inches and tie my top fly (Egg, Jeff) with a (non improved) clinch knot. That leaves a long tag end of about 16-18" - I leave it long and tie my dropper fly (usually start with a SJJ) to the tag end. I like it long because I change bottom flies a lot and don't like re-rigging.

The Provo bounce is also a great set up but takes more time to tie and I'm too lazy to do it in most cases.

[dainw]

Ok Brad so rather than tie your dropper to the bend of the hook, you purposely tie a long tag end and tie your dropper to that?

[bradbessett]

That is correct, sir. Not only does it save time, but one less knot means a lower fail %.

[dainw]

Thanks for the info, I'll have to try it that way.

[TAStockton]

I like to start with a dry fly, and then take my nymphs, and throw them in the trash. Its an older style but works great.

[golferjeff]

TA's idea of a dropper is to drop kick said nymphs into the trash.

Gotta try Brad's setup.....

Provo bounce is deadly but takes some getting used to. Every bounce seems like a strike when you first see it.

[dainw]

TA I have some questions about your rig. When you're throwing your nymphs in the trash, do you prefer heavily weighted nymphs to get to the bottom of the can quickly? Or should you buy lightly weighted flies that will ride higher up in the trash can so that everyone knows that you threw them away?

[golferjeff]

It's Beavers Bend, the trash can is empty before TA tosses his nymphs in. No weight necessary. The trash is along the creek. I need to teach magick to carry a doggie trash bag and load him up....

[jonbo]

I keep threatening to try the bounce rig on Spillway, but so far I've been too chicken.

[colonel71]

First time to post but I love the info---especially about the trash bin!!  I do a lot of nymph fishing and I use very small midge patterns.  My typical rig is a #20-22 midge larva (red or cream color) with a #24 midge pupa (brown with black head).  As day goes by I swap the flies between midge larvae, midge pupas, and midge emergers, and sometimes a dry midge ( hard to see).  I tie on my upper fly using a Davies knot and then put my dropper piece of tippet thru the eye of the top fly and again use a Davies knot.  Makes for a a small knot profile.  I use a strike indicator and small weights but if I need to really get it down, I'll use a heavy beadhead PT or something.